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Ski boots can be a tricky crowd to figure out. Not only are there thousands of types of ski boots to choose from, there are kinds made for all the various manners of skiing. Can anyone say uber-complicated? I can. Well, I’ll try to pull a Sherlock Holmes here and make the mystery of choosing the right (and left) ski boot solvable. With a clue from here and a hint from there, let’s solve the buying ski boots riddle. By the time we’re done, you should feel more at ease the next time you walk into that outdoor ski shop to try on and perhaps purchase your next set of ski boots.

Why Buy Ski Boots:

These days, ski boots form the unbreakable (unless you crash, of course) joint between you the skier and your skis. The way you ski and your skill level is directly linked and related to the comfort and fit of your ski boots—can’t conquer that mogul? Blame your ski boots first and yourself later (that’s how the pros do it anyway).

Here are some simple edicts to remember about ski boots:

1. You should never walk away from ski boots sore, bruised, blistered or battered—no matter how new they are;
2. The ski boot should be well padded, insulated and again, comfortable;
3. The ski boot should be snug but not too tight and
4. The ski boot should properly fit into the bindings of your skis, and sorry to say, duck tape will eventually break.

Anatomy of Ski Boots, Caught Naked:

There are about eight (or so) parts of the ski boot to keep in mind when trying on ski boots, for adjustments here and alternations there can make an uncomfy boot feel like heaven. These mostly moving parts include the durable outer plastic shell (protects from impact and guides body movements), the inner booty (protects and keeps your toes-ies warm), outer strap (for locking your foot and shin in), ankle adjustments (change forward movement of ankle), lean adjustment (if you angle forward, this helps change your overall stance), the upper lateral adjustment (helps change the angle of the boot based on your legs natural positioning), sole rest adjustment (change angle of how your foot lies on the footing of the boot), and ski-walk (this gives you backwards movement for walking). Not all skis have all of these adjustments while some have even more.

How To Properly Fit (Into) Ski Boots:

The fitting of your ski boot is probably THE most important piece of gear comfort in skiing. Ergo, don’t take your fitting sessions lightly—ask, probe and delve deep into the questions you want answered before you buy, whether you have lots of money to spend or none to spare, the same rules apply.

•    Wear your ski socks only when fitting ski boots
•    Your foot should snuggly slide into the ski boot and fasten more snuggly around your foot
•    There will be a little bit of play (space for your heel) when your toes touch the front and play (space for your toes) when your heel touches the back of the boot when standing straight up with no rubbing, pain, pressure points or chaffing
•    Your calf should have room to move and not be too tight and restricted; bending forward and backward should be possible with no pressure or rubbing in any one spot but directly distributed throughout the front (when leaning forward) and back (when leaning backward)
•    Even if you don’t like the colour or design, try the ski boot on anyway to get an idea of how the feel changes from boot to boot
•    Be sure to have the ski boot salesperson’s attention the whole time and ask plenty of questions to engage them—they are the pros so trust them but rely on your own comfort levels to make your purchase (they always swear I’m a 43 [US 10] but the 45 [US 11.5] just fits so much more comfortably, for example).
•    Own the ski boot, don’t let it own you—this means that you’ll have much more fun and no problems with the correct fitting ski boot. If the ski boot doesn’t fit properly, it will own you, meaning you will succumb to the pressures to stop because of the ailments it will cause you. There is no breaking in period for ski boots, so the ones you buy should immediately feel agreeable.

It’s almost a new year and that means time for some new gear. If your hubby, wifey or better-half doesn’t have to dig deep into Santa’s stockings to buy you a new set of skis, then by all means make sure that you try them on (and out) first. Whether it’s going to be you or someone else picking out some new skis for the 2010 skiing season, the rules still remain steadfast; know what you’re doing before you buy! Here’s some things to ponder before plundering your wages on skis that won’t work for you.

Read the Mags & the Web

One of the best ways to learn about the newest ski designs and innovations is to read up on the goodies. A month’s research before you buy anything will have you feeling very confident in your purchases; and, let’s face it, skis and equipment are anything but cheap! Magazines, I understand, can become quite overwhelming with their testing of 200, 300, 700 different kinds of skis. The trick here is to simply weed out the kinds of skis you won’t be needing—for most of us, this is the easiest part.

Answer the question: Will I need park and pipe skis, powder skis, carving skis, beginner, intermediate or advanced skis? Will I be skiing a lot (and thus improve) or will I be skiing for a week or two-week skiing holiday in Val Thorens, Zermatt or Les Arcs and then be finished for the season? If yes to the former, then buy skis that will allow you to slowly advance—skis that are slightly above your current skiing level; if yes to the latter, then buy skis that fit your current skiing ability. Reading online, independent reviews of skis is one of the best ways to “test” without paying for the newest skis.

Size Does Matter

In some cases, size does matter; skiing is one of those cases. Let us talk about ski size for just one moment: The orthodox and thus accepted belief both in the US and EU is that the ski should reach somewhere betwixt the top of your noggin and the bottom of your chin. Here is a rough idea of how this works:

Chin Level: You should choose skis that reach about or a little above chin level if you are a starting out or are an intermediate skier. Moreover, you should pick chin-level skis if you like to turn quicker and sharper. And, finally, grab up the chinners if you are one of the skinny dudes or dudettes—this means that you are lighter than the average weight for your height.

Noggin Level: You should choose skis that reach to or a little above your noggin (the crown of your head) if you like to take to the un-groomed pistes. If you like to go fast and plan to do some combative moves in the powder and your weight is above average for your height, then noggin level skis might just be for you.

Here is a suggestion chart I created for the size of skis you’ll need based on your height in centimeters. All these numbers, however, go out the window once you throw in other factors such as ability, terrain and desires.

At the end of the day, however, the only thing that matters is your own idea of comfort. Though the skis you buy should befit the terrain and your ability, the real confidence booster is when you’re totally happy with your choice of skis. Don’t let anyone tell you differently. If you are a beginner but want the longer skis because you don’t turn so quickly, then try the skis out and then make up your mind. If you’re buying at an honorable ski shop, they’re likely to take back a pair of skis you just can’t stand in exchange for another set (as long as it’s within the first few days of buying). Buy what works for you and get out there because the snow is finally falling!

If you’ve ever seen the somewhat historic and surely cult-followed film “The Karate Kid” then you no doubt remember Daniel and his karate master, Mr. Miyagi. The one thing in this film that made Daniel become the karate kid was the wax on, wax off method taught by Mr. Miyagi. With this skill, Daniel could potentially block any kick or punch thrown at him. Waxing on and waxing off your skis will do the same for you. When you correctly put wax on the ski (and take the old wax off), you essentially give yourself an edge to ski better. Even if you’re the master like Mr. Miyagi, or the student like Daniel, properly waxing your skis will allow you to try more while on the slopes. Here’s how to wax on, wax off.

Mr. Miyagi’s Warm Up

If you’re out on the slopes and you know that you’re skis could use some wax, you can’t just come in and start applying. One of the most important and often forgotten steps to waxing your skis is to let the skis become warm, at least to room temperature. If you’ve just came in out of the cold, then wipe off the water, snow and ice; they’ll warm up much more quickly.

Mr. Miyagi’s Wax Off

Now it’s time for the wax off before the wax on. You’ll want to use some sort of base cleaner to remove any old and gross substances stuck to your skis - namely dirt, mud, pebbles and especially old wax.

When you apply the base cleaner, it will shine at first and then air dry. Make sure you cover the entire base of the ski so that it is moist but not dripping. You can use an old cloth, piece of clothing or even a paper towel - the kind in public bathrooms works pretty darn well. Again, let the skis air dry once you apply a nice layer of the base cleaner.

Mr. Miyagi’s Ironing On

If you’re letting your skis warm up and enjoying a cup o’ Joe, be sure to have an iron heating up - the kind easily found in the hotel, apartment or chalet’s closet will work. It’s better if the iron doesn’t have those tiny side holes on the base, however. The precise temperature is what you’ll be looking for. You can put a small piece of wax on the iron to test it. You don’t want the iron to be too hot. Keep turning it down until the wax melts but slightly solidifies. If the iron is too hot, it could damage your skis.

Mr. Miyagi’s Wax On

The moment you’ve been waiting for - wax on time! OK, I do realize it’s not that exciting. Get your skiing wax out of the package, box or wherever else you keep it and apply it up and down the base of the ski. Some people do it in sections but I just do it all at once. Here’s where the iron comes in: Iron the wax down till it forms a smooth, thin layer (thick is not better contrary to intuition; if you must go faster, go down steeper slopes). Then, iron the skis in the same way you’d iron the legs of your pants, following the grains and textures of the material. This will work the wax into places where it is most needed. If you notice any dry spots where the base is showing, you’ll need to add more wax to those areas. The base will absorb it until it needs no more wax. Allow the wax to cool and be sure to do both skis.

Mr. Miyagi’s Final Preparations

Make sure the wax on the skis is sufficiently cooled down enough before doing this next step. Try to test the temperature with a place that doesn’t have lot of oily skin secretions - like your fingers. Now, you’ll need to wax off the excess wax that is on your skis with a snow scraper, an old credit card or something flat, strong and plastic like.

You’ll want to go down the ski one to four times to remove the excess. What you don’t get off, however, will easily be taken off with the friction of the snow. After this, use a polisher (like for waxing your car or a nylon pad) and wipe up and down your skis a couple times. The wax should look even and smooth, polished for the snow. Often, people use a stiff brush and wipe up and down lightly two or three times to remove any other leftover particles. Your skis should be again ready for the slopes. Like Daniel in Karate Kid, you’ll find that waxing on, waxing off your skis will give you the edge to conquer any punches the slopes can throw at you.