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The Littler Known Places to Go, Ski, and See

Just because a ski resort is little known (or not known at all) doesn’t mean that it is has no good outdoor winter activities. Quite the contrary: Some of the best kept secrets are that exactly—the places that not too many people think of going. Though the locals may know about their own best-kept secrets, it doesn’t mean that you can’t barge in for some serious skiing or boarding on your neighbors powder. I’ve come up with some out-of-the-way ski destinations and what you can do there this winter. It’s time to give up the crowds, expense and go native.

Andorra

Though you may have never thought of taking a visit to Andorra—that little speck tucked between Spain and France—there are some ski resorts you won’t soon forget. One that comes to mind is Vallnord Ordino, Arcalis. Arcalis is literally concealed between the main Cercle d’Arcalis, a valley with some snowy north-facing slopes with trees all around. Aside from some crazy locals and those living in the neighboring towns (across the borders), you won’t find this place overblown with tourists. The nearly 700 meter drop won’t leave you laughing except for the joy of being alive (OK, it’s not that bad) and  there probably more snow making machines per  hectare than any other European snow resort.

Austria

It’s a little harder than you might think finding a “small” or “reclusive” ski resort in Austria that no one has ever heard of. One that I came across, however, is not as small and popular as it feels. Lech (Zurs am Arlberg) is one of those getaways that you won’t be disappointed I when you get here. There’s a few more than 100 ski slopes to choose from and a cool children’s park and a few times a day you can jump on a horse drawn sleigh. The 2800 meter vertical will take up plenty of your day perfecting.

Germany

The little-heard of ski resort of Wallberg in Germany is a recluses dream ski holiday. Though there is one great toboggan run around 7 km long and a ski slope meant for true experts, Wallberg is meant for those who come to do other activities in the snow. Those few souls looking for outdoor adventure away from the crowds during the ski season come to Wallberg for cross-country skiing, primo explorations around lake Tegernsee and Nordic skiing. Others come for the views and the unconventional panoramic views from the restaurant.

Switzerland

If you’re looking for a small escape in the land of plenty, then a trip to the 10 ski slopes at Kandersteg will keep you solo and happy. The number of km for the slopes is about 50 km, so there’s some nice diversity in the long runs. However, Kandersteg really only caters to intermediate and expert skiers, again, making it an escapist’s snowy dream. (There are some blue slopes, so don’t fret.) You can even get up to 3000 meters and head down the 1700 metered slope as many times san-lines as much as your heart desires. Kandersteg probably has the cheapest weekly rates, starting at around 115 Euro per week. Not too shabby, eh?

While most of Switzerland’s ski resorts are located along the Italian, French or Austrian border, Engelberg stands alone in the centre of the country. The picture perfect village counts about 3500 inhabitants and is nested in the Obwalden Alps. In its early days, Engelberg’s activities revolved around its monastery, established in the 12th century, which was considered a great place of knowledge. Winter sports started to develop in the late 19th century, shortly after the first hotel was built.

In summer, the Engelberg-Titlis mountain cable-ways don’t stay still! In fact, they allow skiers and boarders to enjoy their sport even in the heart of summer, on the Titlis Glacier. All kinds of sport lovers can also enjoy their favourite summer activities, and there are plenty: Mountain bikers of all levels will find suiting challenge on one of the 14 mountain biking trails (from beginner to expert level). The Via Ferrata network offers five routes to choose from, and one has been designed for the whole family to be able to discover this alpine activity. While the Via Ferrata demands a good overall physical shape, the Seilpark (rope park) is accessible to most, given that they are not afraid of heights. The six trails are comprised of hanging bridges, Nepal walkways and exciting Tyroleans. For those of us who prefer having both feet on the ground, numerous opportunities of Nordic walking as well as hiking are offered and the Golf Club Engelberg-Titlis (18 holes, 5505 m, Par 71), with its fantastic panorama, is the perfect spot to combine sport, nature and well-being.

In winter, ski at an altitude ranging between 1000 and 3000 metres above sea level. The resort of Engelberg-Titlis has 82 kilometres of runs and 24 transport installations to offer, so one can expect perfect skiing enjoyment on blue, red and black slopes. Engelberg is definitely the place to be for snowboard enthusiasts, in winter or summer, since the offer is very complete here: a fun park on the Joch Pass during winter, on the Titlis glacier in summer and all of its runs. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, all winter activities usually found in European ski resorts are also found here: telemark, cross country skiing, sledding, Nordic walking, hiking, snowshoeing, etc. For sport events enthusiasts, the FIS ski jump world cup is held here in December and the Swiss Snow Walking Event in March. During both this events, think about booking your accommodation ahead because Engelberg hotels and apartments fill up quite quickly.

The impressive Benedictine monastery is still operational today, with more than 30 monks in residence. Visits are possible Wednesday to Saturday from 10AM to 4PM and typical regional cheese (ladled by hand into a mould by the monks) can be purchased in the boutique (open daily) located in the monastery.

Not sure what you want to do during the gap year you were sooo looking forward to six months ago? More and more young people put their gap year to profit to take courses and become a qualified ski instructor. Oh and obviously, you don’t have to get the qualification close to home!

Once again, The Skiing Department Blog offers great insight and info on the topic, with links to a few establishment offering ski instructor courses. See the post here.
Note that only one of the schools listed offers training in the Alps (in Verbier and Saas-Fee): the Warren Smith Academy.

1 area, 2 countries, 12 resorts-villages, countless activities included.

In my opinion, the Multi Pass Portes du Soleil is THE tool to fully take advantage of mountain holidays in the Portes du Soleil area, whether you intend to visit the French side, the Swiss side, or both. Valid until September 21st, visitors can by it at local lift and tourist offices. A day pass costs 6€ and a season pass, 50€, but if you stay at one of the numerous participating accommodations, it will cost you as little as 1€ per day of your stay to access all included activities.

The Multi Pass Portes du Soleil is valid in:
France: Abondance, Avoriaz, Châtel, La Chapelle d’Abondance, Les Gets, Montriond, Morzine, Saint Jean d’Aulps.
Switzerland: Champéry, Morgins, Torgon, Val-d’Illiez - Les Crosets -  Champoussin.

It grants its beholder unlimited access to the following installations in each of the above-mentioned resorts: tennis courts, swimming pools, mountain-lifts, bus shuttles, cultural sites and tourist road trains.

I actually fail to see why anyone would visit the Portes du Soleil area this summer and NOT get a Multipass, at least for a few days!

A great way to discover Switzerland’s magnificent panoramas is get on a train and, not surprisingly, Switzerland is the European country with the most mountain railway routes. Here are (in my opinion) the most spectacular ones:

Bernina Express

Route: Chur/Davos/St. Moritz - Berninapass - Poschiavo - Tirano
The Rhaetian railway section called the Bernina Express is truly a technical marvel, offering countless breathtaking views. It will take you 2 ½ hours to complete the 145-km trip, which will take you from Davos all the way to Lugano during summertime.
Where the journey takes you: across viaducts, through tunnels and the Berninapass (2,253m), in Davos, Saint Moritz, Graubünden and Tirano, in the Poschiavo valley and past mountain torrents.

GoldenPass Panoramic

Route: Lucerne - Montreux
This 5-hour mountain train trip allows its passengers to see very different aspects of Switzerland: the «Swiss Riviera» in Montreux, with its palm trees that give an almost Mediterranean feel, the alpine black fir tree forests and of course, lots of green pastures.
Where the journey takes you: In Lucerne, Zweisimmen, Interlaken, Gstaad, Meiringen and Montreux, over the Brünig Pass, in the Lake Geneva tunnel, in the Simmen Valley and by many lakes

The Glacier Express

Route: Zermatt - Davos/St. Moritz
You can take the Glacier Express from St. Moritz of from Zermatt, the trip between both will take you about 7 ½ hours. During that time, you get to admire forests, pastures, and streams as well as mountain valleys and peaks.
Where the journey takes you: over 291 bridges, in 91 tunnels, and in 7 valleys. In Davos, St.Moritz, Chur, the Rhine gorge, Andermatt, Brig, the Oberalp pass (2,033m), the Canton Valais, the Matterhorn, and Zermatt.

For any of those journeys, reservations are essential. Train tickets and information on the different routes offered is found on MySwitzerland.com/rail.

It’s time to hit the Jungfrau region the 21st and 22nd of August to cheer for the participants of the Inferno triathlon. The maximum number of participant (250) has already been reached, but it’s infernal enough that most people, even confirmed athletes, not to dare taking part to the event.

Here are some numbers about the 4 disciplines of the triathlon (sic), to make you feel better not to participate:

Inferno Triathlon

Swimming in Thun – Oberhofen
Distance: 3.1 km
Road bike through Oberhofen, Interlaken, Meiringen, Grosse Scheidegg, Grindelwald, etc.
Distance: 97 km, slope: 2145 m.
Mountain bike through Grindelwald, Kleine Scheidegg, Wengen, Lauterbrunnen and Stechelberg.
Distance: 30 km, slope: 1180 m.
Fell Running through Stechelberg, Lauterbrunnen, Mürren and Schilthorn.
Distance: 25 km, slope: 2175 m.

Registrations are still open though for the half-marathon and the relay race. Also, our athletic kids and teenagers, and also less well trained triathletes and beginners, can still enter the Mürren Fun Triathlon. Here’s how this one goes:

Mürren Fun Triathlon

Swimming in the indoor swimming pool Mürren
Kids: 100 m
Others: 200 m
Mountain bike through Mürren and Winteregg
Slope 150 m
Kids: 4,7 km
Others: 5,5 km
Running through the village of Mürren
Circuit not completely flat
Kids: 1,3 km
Others: 2,6 km

Looks like a great active family vacation opportunity in Switzerland!

As days are getting warmer, it is more than time I get my ass down in a raft if to make the most of the season!

If many, if not most, European resorts offer rafting opportunities, Interlaken is my favorite place to start. The Lütschine River, in particular, offers the ultimate white-water adventure! It is perfect because not too extreme – beginners can ride it – but certainly not boring – kids under 16 are usually not allowed to raft it.
In summer, the Swiss resorts offer plenty of all-equally-tempting options of adventure sports, from canyoning to bungee jumping but if you are visiting the Jungfrau region, Interlaken in particular, you GOT to go rafting.

Here are the links to three businesses that offer rafting tours in the Jungfrau region:

Outdoor Interlaken

Alpin Raft

Swissraft (website mostly in German)

What is your favourite rafting destination in Europe?

If you want to golf in an exceptional setting, you definitely need to try golfing in one of the alpine resorts.
What if other members of your family/group do not like to golf? Well… European resorts usually offer a wide range of summer activities, so you can even add rafting, mountain biking, and even skiing on glaciers to your well-deserved golf holidays. Here are some interesting destinations:

FRANCE
Chamonix:
The Golf Club de Chamonix offers an 18-hole golf course designed by the world famous Robert Trent Jones Senior. The club is located between the Mont-Blanc range and the massif of the Aiguilles rouges, in a truly magnificent location. Chamonix is also first-class destination for mountain biking.
Tignes:
Tigne’s 18-holes golf course is also set in beautiful surroundings. Because of its glacier, Tignes also enables summer ski so why not plan a golf/ski summer holiday. That should certainly please the whole family!

ITALY
Bormio:
The 18-holes golf course in Bormio, also called “Fornace”, is a creation of the architect Mario Verdiedi, of St. Moritz. The basic principle of the course design is to conform to the original configuration of the land and all of its curves. Summer skiing is possible just a few kilometres away from Bormio proper, and mountain biking is, here again, a very popular activity.
Courmayeur:
The Courmayeur golf course was designed and built in the 1930’s by Briton Peter Gannon. At that time, golf was a sport for the privileged but more and more people every year learn the basics of this timeless sport. When in Courmayeur, mountaineering is also a must-do.

SWITZERLAND
Crans-Montana:
Crans-Montana is truly a premium destination for golfing. Asides from the famous course used for the European Masters, one of the most important European golf competitions, two other 18-holes courses are to be found within the 20 kilometres area of Crans-Montana. Two 9-holes courses allow the beginners to play without handicap and many options for golf courses are available. Crans-Montana is also a good destination for hiking and biking enthusiasts, and also to indulge yourself in one of the numerous spas of the resort.
Zermatt:
Even if people have been playing golf in Zermatt for about 20 years, the Golf Club Matterhorn was inaugurated in 2004. The closest place to stay if you intend to show off your skills on this 9-holes course is Täsch. Here again, you can plan your ski-golf vacations because summer ski is possible on the Matterhorn glacier.

From the 19th to 21st of July the Tour de France will be, for the first time, in the Swiss mountain resort of Verbier. On Sunday, 19th July, its 15th stage starts in Pontarlier (France) and is scheduled to finish in late afternoon in Verbier, following a final ascent of 8.5km with 700m of elevation between Le Chable and Verbier. The next day is (a well deserved) rest day and, on Tuesday the 21st, cyclists will start from the neighbouring town of Martigny, pass over the Grand-St-Bernard Pass (the highest altitude point of the 2009 Tour, at 2,476m) to finish their stage in Bourg-St-Maurice (France).
Needless to say that, during those three days, the region will live the excitement of this great cycling fiesta!

Why not extend your stay in Verbier and take time to enjoy the Verbier Festival. From the 17th of July to the 2nd of August, the Festival presents 17 days of world-class music, from orchestra concerts to opera to chamber music. The bars and cafés present a program of performances, free concerts, conferences and public rehearsals.

There might still be some accommodations available in Verbier for that period but don’t waist time!